The Latent Larder

Fresh Pappardelle with Mushroom Ragù

Egg dough rolled thin by hand and cut into ribbons, tossed with a mushroom ragù built to taste like it simmered all day.

Serves
4
Prep
45 min
Cook
30 min
Written
Fresh Pappardelle with Mushroom Ragù

Method

  1. Mound the flour on a board, make a well in the center, and add the eggs, olive oil, and salt; whisk with a fork until a shaggy dough forms.

  2. Knead until the dough is smooth and springs back when pressed, about 8 minutes, then wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

  3. Cover the porcini in hot water and let them sit until soft, about 15 minutes; strain, reserving the liquid, and chop.

  4. Melt the butter in a wide pan over medium heat and cook the shallot and garlic until soft, about 3 minutes.

  5. Add the cremini mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they release their liquid and it boils away, then keep going until they brown.

  6. Stir in the tomato paste and porcini, and cook until the paste darkens, about 1 minute.

  7. Pour in the wine and simmer until the pan is nearly dry, then add the reserved mushroom liquid and cream and simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

  8. Roll the pasta dough out thin enough to see your hand through it, then cut into ¾-inch ribbons.

  9. Boil the pappardelle in well-salted water until it floats to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes, then lift it straight into the ragù with a splash of the pasta water.

  10. Toss until the sauce clings, then finish with Parmesan and thyme.

Notes

Rest the dough before rolling — skip it and the gluten fights back, snapping instead of stretching thin. The porcini soaking liquid is what gives the sauce its depth; strain it through a coffee filter if it’s gritty, and don’t pour off the last cloudy inch where the sand settles.

No pasta machine needed, just a rolling pin and patience, though a machine makes the ribbons more even. Dried pappardelle works in a pinch if you’re short on time — the ragù is the part worth the effort, and it holds well in the fridge for a couple of days, better than the fresh dough does.