The Latent Larder

Penne alla Vodka with Pancetta

A tomato-cream sauce built on rendered pancetta and a splash of vodka, which cooks off but leaves the sauce silkier than tomato and cream alone.

Serves
4
Prep
10 min
Cook
25 min
Written
Penne alla Vodka with Pancetta

Method

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the penne until just shy of al dente, then reserve 1 cup pasta water and drain.

  2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and cook the pancetta, stirring occasionally, until crisp and browned, about 6 minutes.

  3. Add the shallot and cook until softened, about 3 minutes, then stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds.

  4. Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it darkens a shade and coats the bottom of the pan, about 2 minutes.

  5. Pour in the vodka, scraping up the browned bits, and simmer until it’s reduced by half and you can no longer smell raw alcohol, about 3 minutes.

  6. Add the crushed tomatoes and red pepper flakes and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

  7. Stir in the cream and Parmesan until the sauce turns pale orange and glossy.

  8. Add the drained penne to the skillet and toss, loosening with splashes of pasta water until the sauce clings to the noodles.

  9. Season with salt and pepper and scatter with basil before serving.

Notes

The vodka isn’t a flavor so much as a tool — it dissolves flavor compounds in the tomato paste that water and fat can’t reach on their own, which is why the sauce tastes rounder than a plain tomato-cream base. Let it actually simmer down; a sauce that still smells boozy hasn’t finished the job.

Swap the pancetta for guanciale if you have it, or leave it out and start the sauce in olive oil for a vegetarian version — the tomato paste and cream still carry it.