The Latent Larder

Everything Bagels

A stiff, low-hydration dough boiled before it's baked, the only way to get a shiny crust and a chew that fights back.

Serves
8
Prep
30 min (plus overnight rise)
Cook
25 min
Written
Everything Bagels

Method

  1. Whisk the yeast and sugar into the warm water and let stand until foamy on top, about 5 minutes.

  2. Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl, pour in the yeast mixture, and knead by hand or mixer until the dough is stiff, smooth, and barely tacky, about 8 minutes — it should feel much tighter than a sandwich-bread dough.

  3. Divide into 8 pieces and roll each into a tight ball, then poke a hole through the center with your thumb and stretch it into a ring about 2 inches wide.

  4. Set the rings on a parchment-lined sheet, cover, and refrigerate overnight, 12 to 18 hours.

  5. The next day, bring a wide pot of water to a boil and stir in the honey and baking soda.

  6. Heat the oven to 425°F and dust a baking sheet with cornmeal.

  7. Boil the bagels in batches, 1 minute per side, until they puff and turn glossy, then lift out with a slotted spoon back onto the sheet.

  8. While still wet, press the tops into the everything seasoning and set seasoned-side up.

  9. Bake until deep golden brown all over, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through.

  10. Cool on a rack at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Notes

The boil is what separates a bagel from a very dense dinner roll — it gelatinizes the surface starch before the oven ever gets to it, which is where the shine and the chew both come from. Skip it and you’ve made a bread ring, not a bagel. Keep the dough on the stiff side of what feels right; a wetter dough boils up soft and loses the shape you spent time rolling.

The overnight cold rise isn’t optional either — it’s what gives a plain flour-water-yeast dough enough flavor to stand up to nothing but a schmear. They keep at room temperature a day, sliced and frozen for a month after that, and take well to whatever seed mix you’ve got instead of the everything blend.